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October 7, 2008

International Discord at an Internationalizing University

My status as an international student has lumped me into a brewing university controversy. Apparently there's a bunch of local students angry at 'we' foreigners for our various transgressions. These include: "cigarette-butt littering, late night alcohol drinking and boisterous gatherings in the dormitories." Evidently the authorities will not be taking any more of this crap from us foreigners. Future transgressions will be met with letters home to Mom and Dad, official reprimands, or complaints to diplomatic authorities (?!).

I'm obviously not involved in any boisterousness. I'm a keener. I just study. However I find the way the issue is being handled interesting. It'd be almost inconceivably politically incorrect for a North American educational institution to react to such complaints by lumping all international students together and then communicating with them en masse. Can you imagine MIT issuing emails to all foreign students warning them about potential expulsion because there had been some complaints about Chinese students partying? On a slow news day that kind of thing could make national news.

There was to be an official meeting this evening to hash everything out. Unfortunately I didn't learn about it until it was too late. I'd like to have gone along to see if I could stir the pot a bit.

September 28, 2008

Just in case

We're in the middle of a "super typhoon." I'm not sure what makes it super. But I do know its pretty windy and rainy.

The dormitory vending machines have been scavenged of all food. I need to find some sustenance. So I'm venturing out into the storm to find something to eat.

If you never hear from me again I was probably killed by Jangmi. I'd guess by being blown off of the bridge or by catching a big chunk of flying debris with my head. It was nice knowing you.

September 26, 2008

Vroom vroom...

I bought a motorcycle yesterday. Vroom vroom. It features an unadulterated 125ccs of performance. Which is to say, not much performance at all. But it goes when I want it to go, and it stops when I want it to stop.

From Blog

September 24, 2008

The view from another hill.

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September 20, 2008

The view from the hill at night.

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September 12, 2008

TAPPL, how I have missed you.

From Blog

Tappl is a cheap milk chocolate product ubiquitous throughout Taiwan. It's hard to describe Tappl's special qualities to those who haven't yet enjoyed it's delectable $10nt flavour. Suffice to say that you don't really know good chocolate until you've tasted Tappl. Once you've tasted Tappl, you'll realize that all the other chocolate you've ever eaten was good chocolate. Tappl features a unique waxy, chalky, sometimes gritty texture, and a taste that can only be described as 'something like chocolate.' But no one really eats Tappl for the flavour. I eat tappl because it "is the best choice to supply full energy of stay up or camping mountaining, exercising."

From Blog

Life in a Taiwanese dorm

I was a late bloomer when it came to university attendance. As such I skipped the popular 'living in a dorm room' phase of undergraduate life. Luckily for me, National Chengchi University has allowed me another chance to live the student's dream life.

I've had a few questions about my living conditions. Hopefully the following will serve to answer them:

Firstly, I'm living in graduate student accommodation, which means I get the luxury of a room to myself. Initially I was told I'd have to share a room, but I nagged them until I got my own place. My dorm building is located halfway up a mountain, about a ten minute walk to the main lower campus area. There are buses, but I have yet to figure out the seemingly arbitrary scheduling.

As one approaches my building one has to swipe his RFID equipped student card to open the compound gateway. Next one walks by this room. There's a custodian of sorts in here. I'm not sure exactly what his job description is, but if I had to guess, I'd guess it has something to do with passing the buck. That electronic sign there keeps track of how much electricity we are collectively using.

From Blog

Next you have any number of doors you can use to enter the building proper. I like this one the best because it clearly explains that absolutely no females are to travel beyond this point. That's right. There'll be absolutely no nooky in any Taiwanese dorm rooms. That is, unless said dorm rooms are inhabited by gays...

From Blog

Once inside, one is confronted by beautiful Stalinesque decorating throughout the building. Every floor has at least one common room luxuriously appointed just like the one pictured below.

From Blog

The hallways are long, often unlighted, and home to hanging rain gear and umbrellas. Each door leads to a small vestibule which in turn leads to two separate rooms and a shared bathroom.

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Once inside the room there are functional metal furnishings, an air conditioner and usually a goodly amount of dust.

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The air conditioner needs another micro-chipped card to function. One can charge this card with money at the campus co-op. This I believe serves to keep the numbers on that aforementioned electricity consumption monitoring board from rising too quickly.

From Blog

It's not a terrible place to live. But it isn't very exciting either. Even though there are probably a few hundred students living in this building I've only seen a few scurrying around the halls. The common rooms are not exactly designed to facilitate socialization. That said, as I mentioned earlier, it's CHEAP. I reckon I'm paying about $60/month for accommodation. I can't really complain.

Welcome back. Here's a category 5 typhoon for you...

I haven't been back in Taiwan for two full days, and already it's raining in anticipation of a big 'ole typhoon hitting in the next day or two. Sinlaku is currently a category 4 and forecast to increase to a category 5 by tomorrow. Hopefully it turns north and forgoes Taipei. I was reading that my dorm occasionally loses power. Whereupon, they recommend residents "go home" which would be rather inconvenient for yours truly.

sinlaku photo.jpg

September 11, 2008

I'm back.

After over two years in Halifax, I'm back in Taiwan. I'm doing a Master's degree at NCCU. I'd forgotten many things about Taiwan. The smells, the garbage truck music, the at times infuriating service, the dust. My room had a few pounds of dust in it when I moved in. After cleaning it up, everything is again covered in a thin layer of dust.

From Blog

Speaking of my room, I've decided to live in residence initially. It's tiny and seems especially so after moving out of my nice studio in downtown Halifax. It's probably about twice the size of the bathroom that I'm used to. But on the upside, it's cheap as chips. When reckoned on a per square foot basis, I'm probably paying the same, or maybe even less than I was before.

From Blog

I plan on taking a lot of pictures, and hopefully writing more than I have been recently, so check back often.

January 4, 2007

Taiwanese Utilities.

I just got an email from my ex-landlord in Taiwan. I haven't lived in his flat for six months. However before I left I had enquired as to how much the water/gas bills would be so that I could settle up with my roommates:

Hi Ryan, Thank you for your letter asking electricity bill(台電 in deposit book) .

I had found it from http://wapp10.taipower.com.tw/naweb/apfiles/naWP302.ASP

Key in : 00816976307

2006 November’s meter is 914 and bill is NT$2409.

2006 September’s meter is 1728 and bill is NT$5664.

Water bill (from deposit book)(市水 in deposit book)

2006 November’s bill is NT$545.

2006 September’s bill is NT$387.

Gas bill (from http://www.taipeigas.com.tw/default.htm key in 403-00711-3)

(大瓦 in deposit book)

2006 November’s bill is NT$848.

2006 September’s bill is NT$673.

Best wishes on you.

Jeff Chiu

There's nothing like promptness.

September 4, 2006

In Closing.

So here is a short sort of end of study report regarding my experiences in Taiwan. People still occasionaly find me on the internet and ask questions about how much one can learn, and whether I have tips or not. Chinese study is increasingly popular, and I'm happy to be of any help my limited experience may offer if you have questions.

Altogether I spent eleven months in Taipei. I started off in a very basic class studying Practical Audio Visual Chinese book 1. I opted for intensive classes as I was of the mind that more hours of instruction would help me to get a good foundation. For my first two terms (3 months a piece) I studied through the first book of the PAVC series and the first half of the second book which is divided into two Shang and Xia. I then opted for the third book in the 'Far East Everyday Chinese' series. It was a bit of a jump in level but I worked hard. I chose it because I found the vocabulary to be a bit more up to date than the PAVC series.

For my last term (which I only attended 2 months of) I studied News and Views which is fairly new on the Shida course selection. The book I used was actually published by Taida and my teacher who was one of the co-authors worked at both Shida and Taida. It was a very good course and I am still working through the materials now.

My Chinese is at a decent level. I can now stop people on the street and have conversations. I've just gotten a new job here in Canada working as an interpreter at a Maritime Musuem and I'm able to use it when Chinese tourists come in to visit. It usually gets a good reaction as they, reasonably enough, don''t expect their white tour-guide guy to be able to speak any Chinese.

I still often lose track of spoken Chinese if it is on an unfamiliar topic of spoken very quickly as in news reports. I can read newspapers, but it can take a good deal of time depending on how many words I need to look up.

Presently I'm not practicing as much as I'd like. I try to listen to radio news in Chinese (which I download as a podcast). I also try to pick up newspapers when ever I can. There are a few free Chinese news publications here on the East coast. I've got a language exchange partner here but we don't meet as often as we should and frankly as a soon to be full time student with an almost full time job I'm a little bit over-worked.

So my verdict is that if you're either very talented with languages or a sucker for punishment who will practice hours per day a good workable basis in Chinese is quite attainable within a one year time frame.

July 26, 2006

I'm 'a leavin'

I leave my house around 7 in the morning tomorrow. I've got about 24 hours of flight/airport-waiting time until I get to Canada. I'll be incommunicado for a while. I haven't gotten around to posting that Chinese study wrap-up yet. I'll do so later in the week.

July 23, 2006

Typhoons 'a commin'!

I'm scheduled to fly out Wednesday morning. Taiwan's next typhoon is scheduled to arrive Tuesday night. Where exactly it will make landfall remains to be seen, but it looks like it might head straight through Chiang Kai Shek memorial airport. I hope I don't end up spending the day waiting around the airport for flyable conditions.

July 22, 2006

Stuff out of my ears, stuff into my ears...

It's my last weekend here in Taipei. I'm getting around to doing a few things I've wanted to do. Friday night I went to Shilin night market and had my ears cleaned by the magic ear cleaning candle man. I'd heard about it and seen it before, but before Friday had not gotten around to trying it. Because I'm always one to appreciate clean orifices I decided to give it a go.

It was not unpleasant. Nor was it particularly pleasant. The burning of the candle takes about ten minutes and while it burns it slowly draws stuff out of your ear. I was quite anxious to see what had come out of my ear. I suppose less is actually better when it comes to ear stuff. Nonetheless I was hoping my ears would produce a motherload of ear stuff, as the sight of it would have been distinctly satisfying.

PICT4578I was pleased with my ear produce. It wasn't HUGE amounts of stuff but it was certainly appreciable. The fellow said if I came back the next day even more would come out. I'm not sure whether to believe him or if he was just using my innate desire to see crap come out of my ears to encourage repeat business. I decided once was good enough and paid the man. The results weren't terribly perceptible. I reckon my ears feel slightly emptier, and I can maybe hear a bit better. It's hard to say because today I managed to fill my ears with water, likely counteracting any benefit derived from having them specially cleaned. Nonetheless I recommend the ear cleaning if you get a chance. Even if it doesn't do anything good, it is still satisfying to see all that crap come out of the side of your head.

On Saturday some friends and I went to a waterfall in Neihu. Getting there was a dodgy affair involving climbing across fallen logs, scaling a cliff with the assistance of some plastic-covered wire rope, and then scaling down the other side using a similar set up. Once there though, it was very nice. Due to the difficulty in reaching the waterfall there were no other people there. The pool was large enough to swim around (maybe 7 by 5 metres at the longest/widest points) and it was plenty deep for jumping and diving off of the surrounding rocks.

I did more than my share of jumping and diving which is how I managed to re-fill my ears with crap. Hopefully it comes out before I fly home as flying with crap filled ears is always a less than enjoyable experience.

If you want to check out a high-res ear crap photo click on the one above. I put some other photos up here: http://picasaweb.google.com/gryanwhalen/07212006

July 20, 2006

Less than a week

I leave Taiwan in less than a week. I'm looking forward to some poolside barbeque and sangria. But I'll also miss Taiwan. I've been asked innumerable times what I think of the place. Here is my quick rundown:

Taiwan is hot. Taiwanese people are friendly. Taiwan has a lot of cockroaches. Life here is exceptionally convenient. There are some great things to eat in Taiwan. There are some heinously disgusting things to eat in Taiwan. Taipei is smoggy. Taiwan has a lot of funny smells. Some of those smells are good. Others are disturbingly rank. Taiwan has many beautiful spots worthy of visiting. Those spots are likely very hot and humid. Unless it is winter, in which case they are likely cool and rainy. I'd write more but I'm getting hungry. I'm going to go eat some good Taiwanese food.

July 12, 2006

Weather Update.

My apologies for neglecting my posting duties recently. Like I said I'm trying to focus more on the Canadian-Asian affairs blog, and I'm studying more. That said, I am planning a sort of end of 11 months Chinese studying progress report soon. I just haven't got the time or motivation right now. So instead I'll do what any good Canadian would do and gripe about the weather.

Today it's 29 degrees and humid. This afternoon I actually said "wow it's nice and cool today" because the temperature has been hovering around the '35 degrees with skull-crushing humidity' level. It's simply too hot. Apparently there is also a minor typhoon bearing down on Taipei. That means rain galore over the next day or so. I don't personally mind them, but I feel for the farmers and those who live in flood/landslide prone areas who have to deal with them every year.

June 24, 2006

Chatting with the Chinese

A young businessman from Shanghai entered me onto his MSN messenger list yesterday. He was looking for a forienger to practice his English with. Somehow he found my address and randomly added me.

We started to chat (in Chinese), and after I figured what his story was, he started asking me questions. He asked why I came to Taiwan to study Chinese. His question implied that the Mainland should have been the natural decision in my circumstance. I replied and told him it was because I was offered scholarship money, and just for fun I added it was also because I prefer democracy. His reply was "I didn't know Canada doesn't have democracy." That is to say, he didn't understand I was comparing Taiwan's democracy to China's lack thereof.

Such is the power of state controlled media.

June 12, 2006

Gaming Addiction

Video game addictions are a growing problem especially here in Asia. The IHT did an indepth story about the issue in Korea here: http://www.iht.com/articles/2006/06/11/business/addside12.php.

Although I've heard this sort of addiction is an issue in Taiwan as well, Taiwan's only mention in the story is an ironic one. Apparently one of the interviewees decided to move from Korea to Taizhong when she wanted to quit her gaming addiction because the internet service there is crappy. I'm sure that while Taizhong's crappy internet service may be a boon to gaming addicts who want to quit, it isn't the sort of press they want to be getting.

May 11, 2006

Taiwanese Delicacies

Taiwan is home to some interesting delicacies. Today I had dinner with a friend at my local night market. We bought little snacks from various stands and ate until we were full. The first stand had some really nice chicken. The guy chops it up and tosses it in a garlicy, gingery, dressing and serves it in a bag with some wooden poking sticks. It's tasty. You can choose which part of the chicken you want chopped and dressed. I go for the breast or leg/thigh as they're safe and familiar. But if one wishes he can have all sorts of chicken bits. Intestines, necks, cockscomb, partially developed un-laid eggs, or even chicken ass (I kid you not) are all available. I've heard it said that chicken ass is good for your skin. Luckily I was blessed with good skin and thus don't need to test the validity of the saying.

Next I had some Taiwanese sausages. These are quite tasty. I usually get the little meat sausage crammed inside of a big sausage made of some intestine stuffed with rice and fat. The fellow cuts open the big sausage, crams it full of all sorts of tasty delights, and then puts the little sausage in there and wraps it up to go. Yummy stuff which I heartily recommend eating should come across it.

After the sausage I went for some sweetness with a tasty caramel apple. This turned the tables as I of course have eaten caramel apples on many occasions, while Xu Xin had not. It was a Granny Smith, with a slightly soft caramel covering. I choose to have mine with peanuts but a multitude of flavours are available.

PICT3571
Duck Head & Knees
Lastly just to up the strange food quotient for the day we had some deep fried duck head. I'll admit I wasn't keen on this idea. They look horrendous. They don't smell particularly good. And well, they're duck heads. The duck head booth is similar to the chicken booth in that it has all sorts of duck pieces, except the duck booth has no regular duck meat. Just strange pieces of the duck, some of which I didn't know could be eaten. Knees for instance. The guy was nice enough to throw in two free knees with the head that we bought so that the silly foreigner could try them. Along with knees and heads he has necks, stomachs, livers, duck ass (again, not kidding), and the most prized part of the duck: the tongue.

When asked why people eat duck head he replied "because it is sweet and fragrant." Which isn't far off the mark. The knee I ate was both sweet and fragrant. But not in a particularly pleasing way. I wasn't big on the head and only ate a small piece of the cheek. The cheek tasted pretty much like the knee. Chewy, sweet and fragrant. It isn't the sort of thing I'll ever eat again, but I can understand why some like it. After passing on the majority of the head I tried to think of some weird Western food that a Taiwanese person would pass up. I came up nil. Maybe a bloody rare steak? I don't know.

They certainly seem more open minded about food here in Taiwan. I've no idea whether or not it relates to a history riddled with famine, or other influences. Europe has certainly suffered from her fair share of food shortages, but still to the best of my knowledge, passes up on duck tongues and asses. I've heard it argued that in some eras and areas the more exotic and hard to come by a food object was the more highly prized it was by the Chinese. Little value was placed upon nutritive sustenance or the pure carnal pleasure of eating the object, value was in rarity.

Also, to appreciate the Chinese diet one must understand the influence of Chinese medicine, which I certainly don't. Foods here, especially exotic ones, are imbued with various health giving properties. They not only provide nutrition but are purported to alter one's body systems in numerous mystical ways. The subject is entirely too complex for me to even try to get a handle on. Different foods have different effects on one's fluids, blood, qi, spleen etcetera. Balance is the ultimate goal, attainable by finely tuning one's intake of various substances. I have no idea how (un)balanced I am. But I do know that regardless of its possible beneficial effects I will not be eating chicken ass anytime soon.

May 9, 2006

Live in Taiwan? Help me out.

I could use a favour from folks here in Taiwan. I'm currently conducting some research into the political views of Taiwanese youth. An element of this research is a fairly simple, short (ie. 1 double-sided page, 1-2 minute) survey. I haven't got much in the way of funding so I'm hoping some kind individuals will help me with my data collection. What I need are people around Taiwan who have access to youths (18-30). I'll mail you a suitable number of surveys and some stamps for return postage and you can get your friends/students/whomever to fill them out and then return them to me.

It really would be a huge help to me, in that it would increase my data pool, as well as hopefully help to mitigate the current 'Taipei centric' nature of my data.

The survey is in English and Chinese. If you teach English you might even be able to use it in the classroom to bring up some political vocabulary.

If you help me I'll be very grateful, and buy you a coffee should we ever meet. I'll also offer the raw data to those who may have an interest, as well as post results of the research here for all to see. I'm attempting to investigate the political hopes/expectations of Taiwanese youth, and am especially interested in the divergence between these hopes and expectations.

Willing parties please get in touch via email: ryan at ryanwhalen.com with your contact information and we can work out the details.

Thanks.

May 8, 2006

The tax system rap.

They had been promoting this event at my school over the past month. Students were encouraged to write a speech or rap song about Taiwan's taxation system to present at an official show sponsored by the Taipei National Tax Administration.

You might wonder why the Taipei National Tax Administration would sponsor such an event and give away cash prizes to the contestants. It's simple really. It's because "no one would want to hear anything about tax policy if it was introduced by our own people but it it is more interesting when tax policy is described in Mandarin with exotic accents."

I can only imagine what the response would be if Revenue Canada funded a rap competition for people learning to speak English encouraging them to rap about the ins and outs of GST and income tax. I can't help but think the expense would be regarded as wasteful and inappropriate. But maybe Canadians would prefer to learn about tax policy by way of strangely accented English raps?

Yo Yo Yo Yo Yo
I live in Mexico
I come to Toronto
To learn the English pronto

I rap about the tax
don't you be so lax
you should pay your money
don't try to be so funny

If you no pay the cash
Revenue Canada have no bash
They don't have no big cash prizes
Give to crappy rap surprises

Don't blame me for the GST.
Peace out.

May 2, 2006

Beware the skin creams...

The IHT has an article detailing the growth of the skin whitening industry, and some of the little known dangers of the creams which sell like hot cakes here.

The quest for whiter skin was one of the first real differences I noticed when I came to Asia. It's disheartening to hear stories of people using expensive, potentially carcinogenic creams in an attempt to adhere to a meaningless standard of beauty. Even worse are the disaster stories about people who have become permanently disfigured in their quest for a fair complexion.

I wonder whether the skin bleaching sector or the skin tanning sector sells more product per year? Not that it matters. The majority are sold by the same few cosmetic companies who market different products catering to differing regional tastes.

April 30, 2006

KMT/CCP Guanxi

Check out this article from Xinhua news agency. This kind of language from the PRC's mouth organ is an excellent display of the growing relationship between the KMT and the CCP.

If one didn't know any history they'd get the impression from this article that the KMT and CCP have been long time buddies since the "start of cooperation between the twoparties[sic]" in 1924. The author/editor gives selected historical background to create context for the connection between the two parties, and somehow neglects to mention the years of war.

I want to check out the exhibition. I wonder if it's at the KMT headquarters? They've got a fancy museum up on the 7th floor I think.

April 28, 2006

Weekend in Tainan

PICT3278-01I went to Tainan last weekend. The excuse to go was to see a band, but I also needed to get out of Taipei. There are a number of ways one can get to Tainan from Taipei quickly and efficiently. I chose the bus. It's cheap, and for the most part they're comfortable. Plus on Guoguang buses they give you complimentary cup of "Holy Water" so that you can defeat vampires, and banish demons should they board the bus. The ride takes four or five hours. Mine was slightly lengthened by the breakdown of a bus in Taichong, but I really can't complain as they dealt with it faster than could have been expected.

In Tainan I was whisked off to a little Shaolin body readjustment centre where a Gongfu master of some sort did some major rearranging of my body. It's a little 'center' (for lack of a better word) run by a father/son Shaolin duo. The son readjusted me. He had me stand, and after a short inspection declared that I had fallen at around the age of 15-16 (quite possible) and it had thrown my hips out of whack. Then his Dad came in and, in passing, glanced at my back and said exactly the same thing. They said that after my readjustment I'll gain weight. I said that while I doubt their prediction my grandmother will thank them if it comes true.

I laid on a mat. He pulled and cracked and shifted things around. Then he did some sort of electro-massage, which was interesting if not pleasant.

PICT3292-01Later I came across a street party. It was apparently for the benefit of a local temple. And when temples down south have a benefit party they of course celebrate with a good pole dancing party. They've got these portable pole dancing optimus-prime-style transforming truck stages that will bring the party to you. They simply park on the street, unfold like a transformer, hook up the PA and away you go. The pole dancing was raunchy, and the skill of the dancers left much to be desired, but it was entertaining. If you happen to pass a pole dancing truck I recommend stopping for a gander. Just don't take pictures. Really. Do not let them know you have a camera. Or the chief dancer/singer/matron will use the opportunity to practice her English by unleashing a barrage of screams "NO NO NO I SAY NO! NONONONONO!!!!" I honestly feared for my safety. I thought she might jump off of the stage and pummel my head into the pavement. Luckily she had temple goers to please, and couldn't waste her time dealing with an ignorant foreigner.

I rode around on a bike. Took some photos. Spent too much time on the back of a too small scooter. And enjoyed the pleasant weather. It's been raining here in Taipei for what seems like forever. Tainan was clear and sunny with a distinct lack of oppressive humidity.

Yar.

It seems Taiwan's piracy industry is doing a good job of mirroring other high tech industries by outsourcing to China. The IHT covers the bust of a huge piracy ring that attempted to not just pirate products, but to highjack the NEC brand: http://www.iht.com/articles/2006/04/27/business/nec.php

April 4, 2006

Money for nothing...

I did my laundry today. The two upshots to that are: tomorrow I'll get to wear underwear and while doing my laundry I got some free money. When I was at the laundromat I decided to try putting a Hong Kong 1 dollar coin into the washing machine just to see what happened. I figured if anything it might mistake it for $10NT as they're about the same size. Imagine my surprise when it mistook it for $50NT. At a current exchange rate of 1.00 HKD=4.19275 TWD that's a pretty good rate of return. If you're living in Taiwan, I recommend bringing back some $1 coins next time you fly throgh Hong Kong. That is, unless you have a moral objection to this sort of thing. In which case you can leave the coins in HK, or better yet give them to me.

March 30, 2006

Maps and Flags

I look upon Shi Da's Chinese Language and Culture Program partially as a tool of Taiwanese aggrandisement. The most popularly used text is quite overtly patriotic. Moreover, the sheer number of scholarship students, such as myself, suggests an attempt to build an army of people who's perception of Taiwan has been heavily influenced by the free money, and relaxed life style. My favourite aspect of this exercise is the maps placed in every single classroom at the Language Center. Every room has one map of Taiwan, and one map of the World. They are identical in every room. The Map of Taiwan (R.O.C.) is quite unremarkable, with little worth commenting upon. The World map at first glance appears to be the same, unremarkable in every way.

That is until one takes a closer inspection. The first thing you're likely to notice is that Taiwan is part of China on this particular map. This isn't particularly noteworthy as this was the official government stance for decades and of course is an opinion still held by a not insignificant minority. Beijing is referred to as Beiping, effectively changing the meaning from Northern Capital to Northern Peace. Fair enough, we wouldn't want the illigetimate commie/fascist government center to be considered the capital. This too is unsurprising, the GMD tried for years to get people to call Beijing, Beiping, and some do.

What is remarkable are the flags surrounding the map. There are flags of all the nations of the world, except of course the PRC. Smack in the middle is the flag of the Republic of China. It's in a special box, reserved for Taiwan and one special friend. Now, maps are often subject to slight nuances depending upon their country of origin. American maps usually put America in the centre, and use projection methods which make the USA look bigger than it really is. Some eccentrics in the Southern Hemisphere flip the standard map upside down orienting the South Pole at the top and the North Pole at the bottom. These are somewhat silly, but understandable idiosyncrasies. This particular map's idiosyncrasy is perhaps more nuanced, but equally as silly. For some unknown reason in the middle of all these flags, twice the size of all the other flags, are the flags of the ROC and the United Nations side by side in their box of happiness. I have tried to reconstruct in my head the rationalization that went into this design feature, but have as of yet been unable to produce a satisfactory line of thought:

PICT2404-01 Cartographer: Right, so here's your map. As you can see I've put Asia in the middle, that's standard for maps around here. Anything else you want before I send this puppy to the printer?
Publisher: Well, we were thinking we could have, I dunno, flags all around the outside. So like, if you want to know what a country's flag looks like, it's right there.
Cartographer: Sure we can do that. Lots of people like flags on their maps. Makes sense really. You want 'em alphabetical or what?
Publisher: Well the order really doesn't matter. But we want a box in the middle for the Republic of China, OK?
Cartographer: Sure thing. You're the boss.
Publisher: No make the box a bit bigger. Let's put two flags in there.
Cartographer: Ummm...OK. Who else? America? They're a good friend and ally, plus they've got a really pretty flag. I like stars.
Publisher: We were thinking the United Nations.
Cartographer: You mean that pasty powder blue thing with the weird laurel leaves?
Publisher: That's the one.
Cartographer:: What the hell? They kicked us out! We're not even a member country! Why would we put their flag in the box of honour. That doesn't make any sense.
Publisher: Yeah, but you know...maybe...well, maybe they'll see on the map that our flags are friends, then they'll wanna be friends too. Then we can be a member country again.
Cartographer: What the hell is wrong with you? That makes absolutely no sense. I can think of no good reason to put Taiwan's flag beside the flag of the UN. If anything it just draws attention to our status as a pariah nation.
Publisher: But I like blue.
Cartographer: Yeah well I like Pamela Anderson. You don't see me putting her in a box.
Publisher: YOU! Insolent Cartographer! You will obey me now! The ROC & UN will be friends forever in our flag box of happiness. I will do anything to fulfill my quest. I would bear Kofi Annan's love child if I thought it woud help, and if I didn't lack basic female reproductive organs. Print my map!

March 20, 2006

Marketing.

PICT1840-01My tip of the day to Taiwanese marketers: If you absolutely insist on naming a condo project "Blog" because you like the way it sounds, you would be well served to at least register the domain name that you plaster all over the adverts. The geniuses who thought up this marketing campaign have "http://www.myblog.com" on all of their promotional material. If you take a trip to myblog.com you'll quickly realize that is in no way affiliated with this large condo project. It's just (as one would expect) a blog service. How the marketing gurus sold this idea to the rich real estate developers, I have no idea.

Marketer: "So we've got a great name for the new building: Shi Da Blog! Whadda you think? Pretty hip huh?"
Developer: "That sounds very hip indeed. The word blog is so hip and youthful."
Marketer: "We can also have a website."
Developer: "Yeah everybody has websites these days. What'll ours be?"
Marketer: "Myblog.com. How's that sound?"
Developer: "That's great! I can't believe we can get myblog.com, such a great name for my new multi-million dollar condo website!"
Marketer: "Welllll...we can't ACTUALLY get myblog.com, but we can write myblog.com on all our posters! It'll look great!"
Developer: "We can do that?"
Marketer: "Sure, why not?
Developer: "Well common sense would dictate that if we have a huge marketing campaign including massive four story tall billboards that we put a domain name for our OWN website on it."
Marketer: "Yes, but this isn't common sense. This is hip-sense. And trust me my hippness sense is hipper than yours."
Developer: "Man, I'm so glad we hired a hip marketing company. I'm so damned hip. 'Myblog.com.' Damn that's hip. 'Shi Da Blog' what a hip sounding building. If we didn't have you guys around to be hip for us, we'd have ended up putting our OWN domain name on the promo. How un-hip would that have been? Phew!"

March 12, 2006

May It Burn in the Everlasting Furnace of Hell

May the junk mail of Taiwan be damned by all that is holy! It is absolutely out of control. Our mailbox is constantly stuffed with this crap. I have severe doubts of the efficacy of direct mailing when there is such a high volume. One would need to give up hours of time every week to read all ths crap. Thus, my suspicion is, in most households it goes directly into the trash, or rather into the recycling. Because with Taipei's, none too cheap, mandatory garbage bags throwing one's junk mail into the trash is prohibitively expensive. You'd reckon that on a tiny island plagued with waste disposal problems (so much so that they used to ship it to the Solomon islands, heaps of room there y'know...) there would be a law against what equates to walking around town and leaving garbage at every single household one passes.

PICT1612-01I have nothing personally against the individuals who distribute the junk mail. I have caught them red-handed on a number of occasions cramming useless crap into my mailbox. I hesitate to ask them not to though, as I realize they are just trying to put food on the table, and likely get paid by the piece. That said the sight of endless flyers poking out of my mailbox every time I come home gets my hackles up. And I don't even know how my hackles work, so this is obviously an instictive reaction of some sort. Most likely my junk mail induced anger is an evolutionary artifact originally intended to defend my ancestors from that god-damned monkey who would always come by with sample banana skins from the bananas his tree was producing. Back in the day my ancestors could just beat the crap out of the junk mail monkey until he learned not to come around anymore. These days that sort of behaviour is frowned upon and I await the enactment of a law of some sort to keep the monkeys off my back.

March 2, 2006

Fish Out of Water

New photo: http://www.ryanwhalen.com/album/Still%20Life/slides/PICT1402-01.html. I call it "Fish Out of Water"

February 24, 2006

They're Watching Me

The mosquitoes here are driving me insane. It isn't that there are too many of them. Nor that their bites are particularly bothersome. It is their cunning and intelligence that angers me at three in the morning as I crawl around in my underwear muttering under my breath "I know you're in here. Show yourself." In hopes that I can kill the one or two mosquitoes which lie in wait for me to let down my guard.

Taiwanese mosquitoes are a different breed than those found in Northern America. They're slightly smaller, a little quieter, and a hell of a lot smarter. I apparently am accustomed to comparatively stupid, and thus more easily killed, mosquitoes. The mosquitoes here seem to know when you're aware of their presence. Simply glancing in their direction as they sneak up on you is enough to make them retreat and strategically bide their time. Their retreat is highly effective, utilizing a series of dodging maneuvers they quickly head for a darkened area to minimize their contrast with the background thus making them virtually invisible.

They of course prefer to come out at night, but sunset isn't enough to get them to show themselves. They're content to wait half the night until I'm in bed, and have shut off the lights before they search out my ears in which to dance around infernally buzzing until I'm forced to point a huge fan directly at my head in hopes the breeze will keep them away. Even the old method of letting them land and bite so as to kill them while their guard is down doesn't work as well here. Any movement or signal that you might be aware of them is enough to trigger the cloacking device.

I need to work on my anti-mosquitoe campaign. I believe as the weather warms, and the rains continue, my battles will only become more difficult.

February 18, 2006

Jetlagged.

I got back from Halifax on Wednesday night. I'm just getting over my jet lag, and catching up on all the studying that I intended to do, but never did, over the holiday break. There are a few new photos up in the gallery section. Beyond posting here everytime I upload something, I've yet to figure out a good way to keep track of what is updated when.

January 12, 2006

Taiwan breeds green-glowing pigs

If you're at all like me then you're sick and tired of losing your pig in the dark. Well, enterprising National Taiwan University scientists have solved our pig-losing problems by combining fluorescent jellyfish DNA with average farm pigs. The result? Glow in the dark pigs (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/4605202.stm). Not your run of the mill glow in the dark pigs either. These porkers glow inside and out. Even their organs emit a greenish aura. That's right, NTU will not settle for second rate glowing pigs. And I say it's about time. I've had to suffer long enough without access to high quality glowing pigs. I'm really glad the demand for luminiscent swine has finally been recognized.

Hopefully they'll have these guys on the market by Easter time so I can bring a few home. They'll be a boon to Northern farmers forced to go months without adequate sunlight. Not only will it make keeping track of one's pigs that much easier, it'll reduce electricity costs to light barns. Best of all we can finally have greased pig catching competitions in the dark, and add pyrotechnic effects. The run of the mill county fair greased pig catching competitions are fun, but they need something to spice up their product for the youth entertainment market. Glowing pigs are just the ticket.

January 9, 2006

Taipei Times

I sent a short letter off to the Taipei Times about a month ago about the scandal regarding DPP vote buying. I forgot about it as soon as I sent it off. Until now I hadn't gotten around to checking to see whether they'd published it or not. Apparently they did: http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/editorials/archives/2005/12/04/2003282957.

January 6, 2006

Screw the extra-terrestrial stuff.

whiskey.jpgThe Lunar New Year is just about here, and the grocery stores are full of gift boxes of whiskey and other liquors. I'm a sucker for fancy packaging and big boxes I don't need, so I was checking out the selection this evening. Most of the more popular brands were represented (ie. Johnny Walker, Glenfiddich, Suntori, etc). This one in particular caught my eye and distinguished itself from the rest as a "Product of World." I reckon that's a very globalized way of looking at product origin. It's quite fair to everyone really. I imagine the residents of Burundi are oftentimes pissed at never seeing "Product of Burundi" on bottles of whiskey. Well the marketers of "Special Reserve Deluxe" have solved that problem and created a product which they can happily market everywhere without angering anyone (besides those customers who actually want to know which country their whiskey was made in). They needn't worry about potential nationalistic antagonism determining customer buying patterns. Everyone (excluding aliens who may prefer the extra-terrestrial stuff) can proudly buy and display bottles of "Special Reserve Deluxe" knowing it comes from the best damned liquor producing planet in the solar system.

December 31, 2005

Regulations at the Taipei Botanical Gardens

1. Open hours: 0400 am till 2200 pm.

2. Person, with (in) following conditions will not be admitted:

A. Vehicle (except bady carriage and vehicles of retarded person) and peddler.
B. Drunkard, causing trouble or uproar, drug addict.
C. With animals.
D. Carrying hazardous.
3. Infringement of the following will be clamped down as provided by law
A. Picking flower/leave, stem of plants and destroying plant specimen without permission.
B. Destroying facilities of the Garden.
C. Climbing fence or entening planting area without due permission.
D. Washing, playing, fishing, catching fish or frog in acquaie plant pond.
F. Spitting, relieving, dropping paper, fruit peel, cigarette bud and wastes at wish.
G. Naked, dress indecently, pestilent, gambling, malconduct.
H. Lying down on the ground, sleeping on open yard.
I. Making noise and causing trouble, offending public orders.
J. Playingballs, drilling, actspreventingtheactivitesofpublictouringandpassingthroughof pedestrians.
K. Lighting firecracker/fireworks.
L. Staying in the graden over time limit.
M. Drawing in the graden over the time limit.
N. Selling merchandise, begging.
O. Drying clothes that affecring the garden view.
P. Other infringment failing to listen to the guidance of administrator

4. All gathering, film shooting and other group academic activity shall apply and secure approval to the garden before conduct.

5. Damaging any plant or other facilities, in addition to the governing of laws, shall also compensate the damage caused.

December 30, 2005

Just keep a lookout for Interpol agents.

While Taiwan does a better job than many Asian countries when it comes to copyright protection, one can still buy unofficial versions of just about any software on the streets. It’s an interesting endeavour involving dodgy exchanges of money, and packages left for pickup. First one must go to the tech district in Taipei. This neighbourhood is crammed with technology shops large and small. They sell just about any techy contraption or gadget one could want. The shops are lined up along the streets. Pirated software vendors usually have a table on the sidewalk outside their shop with sheets of paper detailing their illicit offerings. Nobody attends these tables directly. The employee usually stands at a distance watching the table so he can deal with potential customers when they arrive, while staying far enough away to be able to hoof it if the federalees arrive.

_ICT0045When one wants a particular type of software he simply needs to look for a table advertising it. Once the software vendor is found, standing around the table for a while will bring over the stall owner. I recommend haggling over price as these guys will quote way higher than what they’ll take. Once one agrees on price the stall owner will probably tell the customer to give the money to a kid who will be standing a few metres away watching the transaction. After the kid gets the money he’ll jog off to the secret safe house where they keep all the CDs full of illicit software. About five minutes later the kid will return with a little bag. He’ll make eye contact with the customer and place the bag in a conspicuous place walking away with a secretive nod. The customer then simply needs to pick up his purchase and go home to install his new software. It’s a deal if one doesn’t mind subverting international copyright laws and learning the names of menu options in Chinese. Plus, for a few minutes, it makes one feel like an international man of mystery.

December 28, 2005

How Are Your Nipples?

Prior to this week I didn't realize nipple pigmentation was an issue. PICT0966Apparently it is. I saw this box of "Nipple Pigment Lightening Gel" at my local drug store. It isn't cheap either. Around $450NT/box. To put that in perspective I spend an average of $70-100NT for a restaurant meal. I wonder how many boxes of this stuff one needs to go through before their nipples are acceptably lightened? Furthermore, I wonder if one can lighten other bits of their body? Maybe I could get make certain parts of my anatomy more appealing by adding some pale polka dots. I'm well aware of the importance many Taiwanese women attach to skin colour, but I hadn't realized the concern was this detail oriented. I wish I'd gone into chemistry so I could be the guy who, when asked, gets to say: "Oh me? I make nipple lightening gel for a living."

December 26, 2005

Merry Christmas.

I've had a busy past week. I spent most of the week catching up on school after slacking off to go to Macau. On Friday I did a show for Shi Da's student Christmas party. It went well, considering it was the first time I'd really used Chinese on stage for a whole set. I got offered another gig after it, so I guess I can't have been too crap. The next day I used some Christmas money graciously sent to me by my oh so wonderful Grandmother (thank you Nana) to help me purchase an absolutely fantastic Christmas present. It's a new Dynax 5D (also known as a Maxxum 5D in North America) Digital SLR.

I'm over the moon with it. It's everything I could want a camera to be. I've put a few photos up in the gallery. Unfortunately the dimensions of images on my new camera are different than the old one, so the lay out is a bit wonky. I'll try to fix it at a later date.

While I didn't get to spend the holidays with my family as I would have been able to in a perfect world, I had a very nice day in Wu Lai tromping around with some friends, eating street food, and relaxing in the hot springs.

I hope everyone else has a nice late December holiday season/New Year.

December 20, 2005

Weekend in Hong Kong/Macau

Last weekend I flew to Hong Kong on short notice to do a spot in a Christmas show for overly wealthy Chinese people. I got the first call late Wednesday night, and didn’t have the contract confirmed until Friday afternoon five hours before my plane was to leave Chiang Kai Shek international airport. I rushed my ass to the airport, prop case in tow. They had bought me a ticket on China Airlines which I’d never before flown. However I had read that their past safety record isn’t exactly stellar. This was confirmed on the bus ride to the airport when I was chatting with a Taiwanese girl who works for American Airlines. She told me the Taiwanese say that China Air crashes a plane every four years. Luckily for me they’re not due until next year.

The flight was uneventful. China Airlines appears to employ the Taiwanese women’s basketball team during their off-season. They’ve got some tall flight attendants, especially by Taiwanese standards. PICT0949I arrived in Hong Kong at about eleven (I’d have flown directly to Macau but all the flights were full). Wilson my contract from the production company met me at the airport and took me to the ferry terminal where we hopped on one of the fast ferries to Macau. The ride was about an hour, after which I was ready for my bed. Alas, I was working for a production company that doesn’t appear to appreciate the importance of rested performers. Instead of to the hotel, they took me to the venue where I was to demonstrate my skills to the people who had hired the company to book the event.

Let me fill you in on the event details. Macau is growing quite quickly. China Overseas Development Corporation is in the midst of building a massive, incredibly ritzy real estate complex. The Christmas party was to thank those individuals who had purchased units in advance. There was a band, a Cantonese pop star of some description, a guest appearance by some Hong Kong television celebrity, and myself. It was all hosted by a Hong Kong radio personality. The company is VERY detail oriented. I kid you not when I say that they had four people washing the fountain in front of their building with TOOTHBRUSHES.

So it was at 2:30 in the morning, after flying from Taipei to Hong Kong and taking a ferry to Macau, that I was to demonstrate my skills to representatives of the Chinese Overseas Development Corporation. Needless to say I wasn’t pleased, and I tried to make it obvious without being rude that at 2:30 am after traveling from another country I wasn’t prepared to do a show, nor would it be possible to approximate a performance situation without an audience. Regardless I showed them a few things and gave some ideas as to what my portion of the show could consist of. They made up their mind as to which bits they wanted me to do and took me to the hotel. I got to bed at 4. The mosquitoes kept me up until 5.

The next day was a blur. It started with me going to a tailor to make me some stilt pants (the people who hired me REALLY wanted me to walk on stilts). Then I went to the venue, warmed up, worked on the stage a bit (it was way too small) and waited for show time. After the audience arrived I did about 7 minutes of stilt walkabout to please the boss man. During the show they were constantly giving away prizes like Sony PSP’s, DVD players, stereos and whatnot. I couldn’t help but think that anyone who can afford to buy a H.K$3 million condo doesn’t need a free PSP. My bit was a technical devilstick routine which went over well, an interactive ring piece with a kid from the audience, and an interactive club juggling bit with a few volunteers. It went fine. I learned that rich Chinese people make the most boring volunteers one could possibly have in a show, but overall it was fine.

After the show the folks from the production company took me to a restaurant to celebrate. It was some sort of Tai/Cantonese restaurant. We had a few seafood hot pots which were absolutely incredible. I’ve never seen so much seafood in one dish. It was cooked at the table in a deliciously spicy sauce. Interestingly the restaurant staff brought all the dishes and a pot of just boiled steaming water with some tongs. The guests wash their own dishes at the table in the hot water, I guess its to assure them that their dishes are indeed clean. Hampson, the boss man from the production company, bought a few bottles of really strong rice liquor of some sort which we were all forced to drink in toast after toast. This continued until I was more drunk than I’ve been in a very long time, and Wilson my contact at the production company fell off his chair. After Wilson fell off his chair he and Hampson had to have a drinking contest so that Wilson could save face, and demonstrate that he was still in control of his faculties (which he certainly was not). I got to bed too late.

I spent the next afternoon in Hong Kong. I had a look around in an antique market where I got a few souvenirs. PICT0962I also stumbled upon some ridiculously cheap clothing sales where I picked up a few things. Then I strolled downtown to have a look around. I heard chanting in the distance and remembered that Sunday was the final day of the WTO meeting, and thus the final day of the anti-globalization rallies. I quickly shoved my bag full of low-wage labour produced clothing out of sight and tried to look more like I hate the man. The night before there had been quite violent riots, and I didn’t want my Kenneth Cole bag and Donald J. Pliner shoes to get me in any trouble with the rent-a-mob. The demonstration I stumbled upon turned out to be by the Filipino migrant worker’s association. I listened to some chanting, and watched a traditional dance. The demonstration taught me that Hong Kong has a lot of Filipino domestic workers, and that they think the WTO should ‘go down.’

I flew home last night, late and tired, but overall happy that I’d gone.

December 7, 2005

The Nod.

I call it the foreigner nod. I get it from other foreigners as they walk past on the street. Not all foreigners give it. I’d say slightly fewer than half of those who notice me show their recognition. Guys give the nod, girls give a slight smile. While I’ve lived in quite a few places, Taipei is the first place I’ve lived as a visible minority. I’m curious as to whether or not this ritual is practiced elsewhere, and if so to what extent? Do Chinese students in Canada nod to each other as they pass on the street? Do the Japanese in Europe show their solidarity with one another as their tour buses pass?

media

I don’t give the nod, unless it is given to me first. I find it awkward nodding at people just because both they and I are foreign here. Why should I nod? I don’t go around randomly nodding at people when I’m elsewhere, why should I start here? Furthermore I think the expat community needs no more solidarity than it has. The majority of foreigners I’ve met live in an insular world, socializing with other foreigners and patronizing foreign owned businesses. I’d say the main conduit for integration is via foreign males dating Taiwanese females. I’d also say that “Conduit for Integration Needed” would make a good personal ad title.

While I have no problem with those who give the nod acknowledging the likenesses between their situations and my own, I urge them to not limit the way they perceive identity. It will lead, in the long term, to a more intricate appreciation for those around them, and possibly to better relations all around. Who knows, they might end up walking around nodding to betel nut chewing taxi drivers.

December 2, 2005

Votes For Sale?

kmtposter

I was surprised to read this story in today’s Taipei Times. The KMT is making a fuss about rumors that the DPP pays people to attend rallies. I found it surprising as I didn’t think the KMT would make such a fuss about a tactic they themselves use to pad their rallies. I can understand being angry if a rival party buys electoral support. But didn’t Jesus say something like “let he who hasn’t transgressed electoral law hold the first news conference?” Here’s a photo of the poster that the KMT put up at my school early in the campaign, promising to pay everyone who participates in their youth group activities.

November 29, 2005

Everything is Funnier With a French Accent

macaque.jpg
Today I went to the zoo. I’m normally not a big fan of zoos. I don’t like seeing all those animals caged up. Some I don’t mind. I couldn't care less if a fish or a turtle is in a tank, but I don’t like seeing owls stuck in little rooms where they can’t fly around. However I’m a big fan of monkeys. I find them endlessly entertaining. My favorite, for obvious reasons, was the Crab Eating Macaque. Not obvious you say? Try pretending you’re a French tour guide pointing out monkeys to your guests. Now say this three times with a really thick French accent: “There’s a crab eating macaque.”

This just goes to show that puerile humor is funnier with a French accent.

Succulent Pig Flesh

Pork is to Taiwan as Beef is to America. Its What’s For Dinner. They love their pork here. Some people have strong feelings about eating Pork. I’m open-minded. I think bacon is the candy of the meat universe, but besides that I don’t eat much else from the porcus corpus. The other day I was walking downtown, very close to the National Court and the Legislative Yuan. I saw an animal on the sidewalk chained to a pole. At first glance I thought it was a dog. It had a long hairy tail that wagged like a dog’s tail. Then it snorted at me, and went about munching on some apple bits. I had a closer look and noted the snout and trotters of this, someone’s pet pig.

I’m willing to bet that this pet pig isn’t just the family friend. pigI reckon it’ll also grace the family dinner table, and possibly turn up piece meal in a local market. I could of course be wrong. I’m not overly familiar with the pet keeping practices of the locals. However I am familiar with some of their meat procurement habits. In most Western countries the slaughter of animals, and sale of their meat is fairly well regulated by government authorities. Taiwan is the same, ostensibly at least. There are a certain number of licensed abattoirs at which all saleable meat is to be slaughtered. However in practice much slaughtering is done outside of the regulated system, and meat makes its way to market uninspected. This wouldn’t be much of a problem if one could always count on the honesty of his fellow man. Unfortunately however, the poor regulation of the system leads to diseased animals making their way to the nation’s dinner tables.

Put yourself in the shoes of a farmer with some pigs. You put a lot of care and feed into those pigs, raising them up to a marketable size. Then one day one of your pigs gets sick and dies of some disease. "Damn" you think to yourself. "I just lost out on all that investment. I can’t take poor little Babe to the state run abattoir and sell him. Whatever will I do?"

Well I’ll tell you what you’ll do. You’ll butcher the diseased carcass and sell it at the market. When food safety regulations are laxly enforced, it is a certainty that food will make its way to the marketplace that otherwise shouldn’t and wouldn’t. It is in the economic interest of individual farmers to see that it does. I’m not saying all farmers, or even a majority will do so, but some will. It’s human nature. While the Taiwanese authorities undoubtedly have bigger fish to fry, they should work on the domestic food inspection system. It is in the best interest of the country for innumerable reasons. Public health is important. Animal disease outbreaks such as avian influenza are easier detected if animal slaughter is regulated. Furthermore, I don’t want to eat diseased pig flesh.

November 26, 2005

Corn Laws

Taiwan, like many Asian countries, is seemingly obsessed with English. Originally I wasn’t going to bother commenting on the often ridiculous English usages here, as it is so oft commented upon by others, I’m rather bored of it as a topic of conversation. However I am still entertained when I see a particularly good misusage, and I do let it affect my purchasing decisions (my newest notebook cover reads: A popular bear boy bear lives with his many friends in an old toy shop in fairyland. Most advanced quality give best writing features). Recently I’ve noticed a number of fake university shirts around town. The other day I saw a C.O.U. (or Canadian Ontario University, which most certainly does not exist) sweat shirt. My personal favorite and the one that convinced me to comment, was a Corn Laws University shirt. I assume it is meant to look like the sort of shirt a law grad would wear. Upon sighting it, I wondered whether or not the designer was familiar with the historical importance of the British Corn Laws and their abolition in 1846 which her shirt, knowingly or not, references

Interestingly, the repeal of the Corn Laws symbolically marks the beginning of the free-market system which Taiwan would later use (along with copious American assistance) to such profit. As that shirt and others like it are emblematic of the global reach of English, which goes hand-in-hand with the free market capitalism exported by the British Empire and later the USA. It seems only fitting to have a tribute to the early days of that free market movement on shirts worn by the youths whose lives are so impacted by it. And while the wearer was likely ignorant of the statement made by his shirt, he was proclaiming by both his usage of English and tribute to the Corn Laws that the movement towards freer transit of goods, culture, people, and ideas begun in Europe in the 19th Century is alive and well in the Taiwan of the 21st.

November 24, 2005

Rats!

trap.jpgI'm soliciting rat killing tips. I was recently up all night chasing one of the bastards around my bedroom. For quite a while we've known that we've got a friendly rat who visits our kitchen in search of snacks. I don't mind provided he doesn't eat my stuff. But I do mind him monkeying around in my room. It's noisy, obnoxious, and I can't keep my inner hypochondriac from worrying about bubonic plague and the like. I bought these sticky rat traps, but they're crap. Either that or I'm crap at strategically placing them. I think he comes in through the window, so today I put one on the outside window sill. I envision him stepping on it, getting stuck, and then disloding the trap from the sill sending it plummeting four floors to land rat and all on one of my neighbour's head's. That'd be sweet.

November 20, 2005

Statuary

statue.jpg Nobody else seems to find it bizarre that there is a statue outside Taipei Main Station which, when viewed from the right angles, appears to be a tribute to pederasty. The inscription below reads: Loving Father. I suspect the artist might mean 'Loving Priest' or possibly 'My Time as an Altar Boy'.

I don't think there is any chance the artist made this work and didn't realize that it looked a bit funny from about 40% of the viewing angles. Furthermore I'm surprised whoever commisioned the work didn't raise the issue: "Ummm...is it necessary for the boy in the statue to appear to be fellating the man? Do you think we could...I don't know...maybe move the boy? Or add six inches to his height?" But I suppose that would be impeding the artistic process, and God forbid civil servants should get in the way of public art displays of pedophilia.

November 4, 2005

Skin Problems?

I live very close to a night market, in an area of town densely populated by students and the like. Its a pretty happening place until late into the evening. Nonetheless the most happening place in my neighbourhood isn’t a food stall, restaurant, bar, or shop. No, the place that really attracts droves of patrons is a doctor’s clinic. Its a dermatology clinic right around the corner from my house which has people lined up down the street until 1 in the morning. Gaggles of people hang about near the entranceway, chatting on their mobile phones. skin.jpgI’m always tentative to walk through the crowds as I envision every individual has a dermatological ailment of some sort which I might catch if I get too close to them. If I do have to walk through the crowds I hold my breath so as not to inhale any potential rash causing germs. God forbid I should get a rash on my oh-so-pretty lungs. I don’t know what the incredible popularity of this clinic has to say about the Taiwanese, apart from the fact that many of them have dermatological ailments and stay out late. What I do know is that the place has the outward appearance of a nightclub. All they need is a red velvet rope, and some big-necked male nurse checking people at the door. Come to think of it, I reckon a medical themed night club would go down like gangbusters in some cities. Patrons would wear med-fetish wear, or adopt ailments for the evening. A whole slew of thematically named drinks are made possible, as is intimate booth style seating in 'examination' rooms. I give free reign to any enterprising entrepreneur to pursue this further. I just want complimentary entry when you open for business.

October 31, 2005

I'm Such a Circus Snob

I was wandering about on Saturday afternoon on my way to the 2-28 Peace Park. While passing Chiang Kai Shek’s memorial hall I noticed some sort of hullabaloo in the square so I decided to wander in and see what the ruckus was about. It turns out that over the past few weeks Taipei has played host to a performance art festival, focusing on circus and related arts. On the afternoon I was there, a free performance was scheduled. It was billed as a clown show featuring Canada versus Taiwan. In actuality it was a weak troupe of Canadian performers glued onto a traditional Chinese circus troupe. The segues between acts were weak to non-existent and the actual acts varied in skill from slightly-below-average to slightly-above- average. It was apparent to me that these two troupes were thrown together at the beginning of the festival and told to make a show together.

The juggler (using worn out 95 mm Renegade clubs) did a 1-5 club act. The only moment of note was the bit when he was juggling three clubs and two of his compatriots were waving the other two around behind him. It looked alright. The rest of the act was bad, involving too many drops, poor trick linkage, and a faffed finale. Incidentally the finale was a 5 club cascade sustained for about 8 catches until the pattern fell apart and the guy dropped a couple of clubs. I know Canada has better jugglers than this guy (hell I’m a better juggler than that guy) and I feel sad we’re being represented here by acts like that. That said, the Canucks did have decent costumes and their characterization was continuous and semi-entertaining. I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt and assume their solo all-Canadian show was better.

clowns.jpgThe Chinese acts were slightly better in regards to both their choreography and actual skills. That said, I’d guess they were circus school students as the acts didn’t come off like the high level blow my mind technical skills acts I’m used to seeing from Chinese circus companies. They had nice costumes, good choreography, and the individual performers’ skill sets were well-rounded. Their best bit was the foot-juggling act which ended with a finale involving two kids from the audience suspended from a pole, and juggled by the antipodist.

At the beginning of the show the Chinese troupe performed a sort of Chinese Opera version of Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. If this had continued throughout the show as a theme of sorts it would have improved the entire show. As it was it just seemed like a strange non-sequitur as the 15 minute Opera was not incorporated into the circus show at all.

I’ve included a photo of a few promo clowns who were wandering around with flyers for the public. Hint: you can tell they’re not real clowns by checking out their shoes.

October 25, 2005

Bloody Foreigners...

Taiwan isn’t a strictly homogenous society. There are, especially here in Taipei, people of various ethnicities, cultures and colors. That said, there aren’t so many that we don’t stand out like lint on a black sweater. When I take the MRT I am virtually always the only white guy in the car. When I go to a park to juggle I am usually the only obviously foreign guy there. This leads people to a number of assumptions. The first of which is that I am an English teacher. The vast majority of white people here, especially those in my age bracket, teach English. The second assumption is that I am completely ignorant of the language. The third assumption is that I want a Taiwanese girlfriend. I don’t mind the first assumption. It has led to some interesting conversations, including me giving an impromptu English lesson on an MRT train to a very cute 4 year old who spoke surprisingly good English. The second assumption just leads people to praise my labored, and mistake-ridden Chinese utterances. The third assumption is a bit of a hassle at times. I think I finally know what it is like to be a babe in a bar in North America. Many girls here are desperate for a foreign boyfriend. Foreign oftentimes seems to be the only important criteria. A boy could be a complete minger, but provided he’s white and speaks English he’s a catch. This has led to me signing autographs, posing in dozens of photographs, and having to set a number of “language-exchange” partners straight. The infamous “language-exchange” is often used by locals and foreigners alike to find individuals with which to exchange things other than language.

As a foreigner one is often stopped in the street by school-aged children. All kids here study English in school. These kids are given “homework” in the form of instructions to go out, find a foreigner, and have a conversation. I find it humorous as these instructions are exactly the opposite of what North American kids are told time and again, “don’t talk with strangers.” Here kids are not only encouraged to talk to strangers, they have to have the stranger sign a piece of paper to prove that they have done so. Usually the kids just want your signature. The exchange goes thus:
Student: “Hi, can you help me with my homework?”
Me: “What do you need?”
Student: “I have to have an English conversation.”
Me: “What do you want to talk about?”
Student: (thrusting paper in my face) “Just sign this.”
I sign the paper, and they walk away. I’ve no idea why they bother finding a foreigner to sign the paper. Anyone could do as good a job as me of scrawling an illegible signature onto their homework. That said, I'd prefer to have them use me to skimp on their homework, rather than steal my MP3 player like many North American teens would do.

October 20, 2005

I'll see your request for missiles and raise you a White Paper

Lee Teng Hui was quite emphatic yesterday in his claim of Taiwan's defacto sovereignty. He also suggested that along with the defensive weapons now on the table (being blocked by the Pan-Blues) Taiwan needs to acquire offensive weapons. While I agree in principal, it is a dangerous route to pursue. If the PRC decides to take Taiwan by force the defensive options open to Taiwan will be of little importance. The People's Liberation Army can afford to simply throw men and machines at the island until it relents. However Taiwan is going to need more than a few conventional long range ballistic missiles to deter China. To act as effective deterrent they'd likely need unconventional weapons, of which the most effective deterrent would be nukes. That said, the presence of nukes on Taiwan would raise the possibility of nuclear escalation too high. In fact offensive weapons may be counter-productive to Taiwan. If China is really dead set on reclaiming the province their presence could be used by the PRC to justify a more devastating attack than would otherwise be necessary.

While Lee Teng Hui was chatting up Americans, the CCP was busy publishing yet another white paper. This time they have addressed the possibility of democratic reform in China. Their verdict: no way, no how. It is thoroughly unsurprising and depressing for those on Hong Kong who were hoping the two system approach had a hope in hell of working. The documents keeps alive such laughable concepts as "democracy under the leadership of the Communist Party of China" and the "people's democratic dictatorship" (emphasis added). This document should be carefully reviewed by those in Taiwan who sit on the fence divinding the Blues from the Greens.

October 19, 2005

Choke-a-Chicken

The front page of the today’s Taipei Times brought to light the Australian hubbub about a Taiwanese made toy. The toy is a plush chicken which, when choked, squawks, clucks, and flails like mad. Apparently the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA) feels it sets a bad example for Australian youth, and a bad precedent for toy makers. I think the RSPCA’s sarcastic examples of dreadful toys to come “Burn a Cat” or “Shoot a Dog” sound pretty entertaining. Besides, the example the toys set isn’t necessarily a bad one. In the event of a large scale disaster the ability to choke-a-chicken may come in very handy. Furthermore, with the current avian flu threat choking all of one’s chickens could be a prescient safeguard.

Given the current international trade situation Taiwan’s toymakers may want to market an “Evil Mainlander” toy. It would train kids to distrust mainlanders, and maybe choose their toy purchases a bit more carefully. The Mainland’s ability to produce various manufactures at incredibly low prices is sending low-skill jobs from Taiwan to China. Admittedly many of the companies doing the manufacturing in China are Taiwanese based, but if Taiwan doesn’t carefully manage their economic modernization they may end up with an unemployment rate similar to that of France or Germany where for years jobs have been outsourced overseas, and to Eastern Europe. This may lead to eventual choke-a-finance-minister syndrome in Taiwan, which would just add to the legislative violence.

October 16, 2005

New Photos.

I've had a few requests for more photos, so I've created a new blog strictly for images. I didn't want to flood this one with pictures. You can see some photos at: http://www.sillyman.ca/ryan/photos/. I will put some more up in a week or two. You should be able to click on the images to see a larger version. If for some reason you want an EVEN larger version send me and email and I can get you one.

If you have any problems viewing the blog or photos, please tell me and I'll try to sort it out. I've gone about making it in a rather round-about way so as to reduce bandwidth consumption. There may be unforeseen issues.

October 15, 2005

MT 3.2

The page looks a bit different as I updated the software that powers it today. It took quite a while, and a lot of me doing computery stuff that I really don't understand. I've no idea what a MySQL database is, but I needed to create one. I've been modifying cfg files, running cgi files, and ftping things for hours. I'm sure if I were more competent with computers it wouldn't have been such an involved task. Nonetheless I'm done now. As an added bonus the archive and search functions actually work. Not that anybody really cares but me...

Holy Book!

As I left campus today I was handed a book by a stranger. She smiled and nodded as she gave me the book and said in heavily accented English “Jesus loves you.” Which is fair enough I suppose. I guess he might. What do I know? I took the book, as I’m always looking for new ways to practice my Chinese and I figured the Bible would be as good a way as any. This particular volume is made extra useful as it has both English and Chinese texts so I can instantly check my translating.

Christianity has a reasonably long history in the East, but it really took off with the huge surge in global missionary work in the 19th century. Missionaries spent much of their lives living and preaching throughout East, and Southeast Asia. Much of the early Western scholarly work on the region is a direct result of this missionizing. Some of these missionaries claim to have converted tens of thousands of individuals. While their claims are dubious at best, there is no doubt that Christianity has had a lasting impact here. China is under increased pressure to recognize the Vatican (it still doesn’t as the Vatican recognizes Taiwan which is a no-no according to China). Korea has spawned Christian sects with global reach. Other Asian countries have large, vocal, and evangelical Christian populations.

bible.jpgWhen the woman handed me the Bible I started thinking about the history of missionaries and both the harm and good they have caused around the world. Their effects were global in scale, but highly differentiated by locality. It seems that in areas without strong recorded mythologies (I include all religions under this term) the missionaries exerted a force for rapid change. The Bible subsumed traditional religion. In areas with recorded religious texts the challenge was much greater, and thus the lasting effect not as great. Resultantly the world’s unwritten religions have either largely disappeared, or been written as obituaries. What we’re left with are a few religions, each with their own canonical texts. These texts must thus act as the ultimate arbiters of moral or faith based questions for those who ascribe to these religions. The problem with this is that these texts do not evolve. They are static, having been written from a certain historical frame of reference their applicability and pertinence decrease with time. Updated translations can help to keep them relevant, but they are not nearly as fluid as a pre-literate religion would have been. A pre-literate religion was largely arbitrated by local wise men or women. It was up to them to interpret beliefs for their parishioners. This allowed for more tailor made spiritual solutions to the problems of the day.

I’m forced to wonder whether this decreasing relevance of religious texts is somehow related to falling attendance rates at Churches, and a rise of secularism. Furthermore I wonder how long we will have to live in a world where those who are religious claim that their mythology is the mythology, that their book is the word of God (or the Gods) and holds the ultimate truth. I feel sophomoric harping on about such an overly discussed and argued about issue, but come on. I mean how long are people going to claim that God really wants women to walk around shrouded from head to toe? When will people stop claiming that God chose their tribe of desert dwelling shepherds as the bestest people in the world, and that everyone who doesn’t follow the minutiae of the contemporaneous notes taken during their conversations with the big man upstairs is going to burn in everlasting torturous Hell?

Don’t get me wrong, I’m all for religion. I think tradition and ritual are incredibly important. However religion, ritual, and tradition must be allowed to evolve as we do, or there will be a fundamental disconnect between who we are and who we believe we are.

October 14, 2005

Why I Oughta!

I assume there has to be legislation in Taiwan forbidding physical assault. For some reason this legislation is not abided by in the legislature itself. Politics are so charged here, with two opposing sides unwilling to make concession to one another, that debates often descend into brawls on the legislature floor. Yesterday's papers had photos of a member of parliament with blood streaming down his face after he’d been bludgeoned with another member’s cell phone. I don’t know why the behavior is tolerated. I suppose maybe convention allows for very physical debates in the legislature. However Taiwan should consider revising its stance on public fights in the parliament. I don’t argue this from some sort of moral-high-ground proper behavior standpoint. Rather I feel the spectacle does little to help Taiwan’s international relations.

The one international trump card Taiwan holds is that of the “democratic nation.” When its sovereignty is brought into question Taiwan can turn to the international community and argue: “But we are a thriving democracy. Look compare us to China we have civil rights, elections, and a thriving economy.” However with the situation as it is China can turn to its citizens and say: “Do you see what democracy will get you? Bloody brawls on the legislature floor.” Meanwhile the international community shakes its head as Taiwanese politics descend to violence and the USA becomes frustrated as a bill to sell advanced weapons to Taiwan is repeatedly kept off the legislature floor by the opposition. I can’t help but imagine that a little bit of decorum would go a long way towards improving the sense of legitimacy of the Taiwanese government.

October 8, 2005

10/10

After about a week of feeling miserable and eating virtually nothing but rice gruel I’m back in top form. I reckon I ate some street food which disagreed with my inexperienced North American belly. Hopefully I’ll build up a tolerance to whatever it is that made me sick. By the time I get back to Canada I should be able to gnaw on diseased pig carcasses with no ill effects.

This weekend is a long weekend in Taiwan, as in Canada. Monday is National Day here. The Taiwanese commemorate the fall of the Qing dynasty and “triumph” of republicanism in China. The PRC acknowledges this date as important, but uses the occasion of the triumph of communism in ’49 to celebrate their national day.

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I have no concrete plans. I wanted to go and watch some missiles and tanks get paraded around, but apparently they’re all tied up defending the island from the threat of commie invasion. I could go watch a bunch of army boys march around which may be entertaining. I’m not overly familiar with martial displays. I’ve seen a few official guard changes here and there, and period demonstrations of historical military drills, but I’ve never seen a contemporary display of military might. I would be interested to know more about the development of displays of military might. Many countries have a deep desire to let it be known to both their citizens and those abroad that they have large, well trained, and well equipped military machines. It is traditional when heads of state visit one another to inspect the troops. It is just like when you go to that next door neighbor’s house for the first time, and she insists you look at her Royal Doulton figurine collection. Except the collection is of men who are trained to kill other men, and the next door neighbor is a head of state. So I guess it really isn’t that much alike after all. Unless the troop on display are limited edition special forces troops, with cute little rifles disguised as parasols.

October 3, 2005

Animal Bits

I’d like to think it was the pickled intestines I ate on Friday that made me sick. That would at least give me a rational reason for not wanting to eat it again. Alas, I know in my heart of hearts, I was feeling a bit sick even before I ate the intestines. This doesn’t alleviate my symptoms at all, but it does make my desire to never eat pickled intestine again an irrational one. Before I knew it was intestine I thought it was at least palatable. Regarding Taiwanese cuisine, ignorance really is bliss. I’m willing to eat most things provided I don’t know what they are. Once someone tells me which part of what animal a particular cut of meat originates from I am less likely to want to scarf it down. While I’ve heard the chicken heart shish kebabs are pretty tasty, I just can’t do it. Call me a chicken, tell me I’m a closed-minded North American, or laugh at my ignorance, I just have trouble eating offal. I’ll eat just about anything else. I don’t mind weird bugs, or slugs, or unidentifiable seafoods. I just have trouble with guts.

Liver was never served in my childhood home. Chicken hearts weren’t on the menu. Head cheese was unheard of. Occasionally liverwurst would make an appearance, but I would avoid it more staunchly than I, at that time, avoided peas (now one of my favorite vegetables). I don’t know why I make the distinction between an animal’s muscles and its organs, but I do; and it is a very clear distinction. I just don’t eat guts. I understand it is a completely psychologically rooted distaste. I’m sure lamb brains can be prepared in an array of succulent dishes, but my deep-seated distaste for offal will preclude me from enjoying any of them.

I think I can at times be an overly rational person. Perhaps I should embrace this particular irrational aspect of my personality. An excess of rationality is probably almost as harmful as the opposite. Provided I’m aware of where my irrationality lies I reckon a certain amount is a healthy part of being human. My distaste for offal is similar to many irrational fears and superstitions. They are all part of the incredibly complex array of traits that make us human. Our irrational habits and beliefs help to differentiate us from biological machines. They are all part of the wonderful mystery of what it is that makes us what we are. This at least, is how I rationalize my irrational distaste for animal guts.

October 1, 2005

Everyday I Wake Up and Smell Taipei

The smells of Taipei are exotic, plentiful, and varied. As one walks down the street he is bombarded with scent after scent. There seems to be more distinction between smells here than most places I’ve been to. Each small restaurant, shop, and home exudes its own particular aroma. Sometimes I try to imagine Taipei from the perspective of a dog, or other creature with a hyper-sensitive sense of smell. I imagine it as similar to a Jackson Pollock painting. There seems no order to the succession of smells one is confronted by; first an enticing aroma of frying garlic, then the awful stench of (the aptly named) stinky tofu, followed by an aroma of sewage emanating from God know’s where, and let us not forget the omnipresent smell of exhaust fumes. The procession goes on unabated as one strolls about the city. The smells brush past one's face like a brightly colored paintbrush, creating a chaotic scent-scape of massive proportions.
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Garbage collection adds its daily dose to the odoriferous environment. The trash system here is rather complicated compared to what I am accustomed to. It is collected seven days a week. Different types of refuse are collected on different days. One day will be plastic bottles, another will be soft plastic (ie. plastic bags) and paper, and so on. “Wet Garbage” as they say here, is collected every day. One is to put his garbage into the proper bag, and then wait on the street side with his neighbours for the arrival of the garbage truck which comes at approximately the same time every evening (10:35 in my neighbourhood). This brings out young and old to stand together, smelly bags in hand, in a communal happening which, for a short time at least, can stink up much of the surrounding environs. When the truck arrives people either throw their own trash into the truck or hand it to one of the garbage men to dispose of. Leaving your refuse on the sidewalk for the garbage men to collect is sternly frowned upon. I rather like the routine. It is another aspect of Taipei which adds to the sense of community, and brings life to the streets.

I reckon it is my past as a street performer which makes street life so attractive to me. I feel that life, action, and community activities on the streets of a city help people to remember what they are: people. We are one of many, and all around us are others like us. Cities without vibrant streets allow us to cocoon, and withdraw from our communities. Active streets are healthy for not only the community at large, but for individual well-being. Even if the action is that of bringing out the garbage together.

September 27, 2005

Check Out the Size of my Skyscraper!

Emerging countries seem to like to build huge skyscrapers. It is as if they are declaring the maturity of their economy and infrastructure by demonstrating to the world the immensity of their industrial and engineering capabilities. The United States went through an early phase of this in the first half of the twentieth century, and continued until the seventies. Canada built its own concrete phallic symbol in Toronto. Europeans don't seem as turned on by tall buildings. Maybe it is their innate sensibilities, as once a building goes beyond a certain number of floors it actually begins to lose square footage as the elevator shafts required to service the upper floors take up so much space. Emerging, and fully emerged, Asian economies have been announcing their presence to the world with these huge buildings more and more recently

Now Taiwan and China are competing for the title of World's Tallest Building (apparently there is a distinction between building and tower, otherwise the CN Tower would still trump these Chinese skyscrapers). Shanghai is building a mammoth tower to try to claim the world title. Here in Taiwan they have Taipei 101.
101.jpg

It is, intuitively enough, 101 stories tall. That is tall for any building, anywhere. In fact the Taiwanese claim it is, right now, the tallest building in the World. But here in Taipei 101 stories seems even taller than it would elsewhere. You see the Taiwanese don't seem to like to make their buildings overly tall. This is a sensible trait, as the island is plagued not only with frequent Typhoons, but also occasional serious earthquakes. Taipei 101 literally TOWERS over the entirety of Taipei. It dwarfs everything in this city. It is usable as a landmark from most places. Just look up and, if you aren't too close to any buildings, chances are you'll find Taipei 101. It is quiet a pretty building and, incidentally, has a very good food court in the basement. I reckon this one towering structure will suffice to announce to the world that Taiwan is a member of the big boy's club. The adolescent urge to build huge things is tempered here by the prohibitive cost of planning for potential natural disasters. The amount of engineering ingenuity required to ensure that Taiwanese buildings don't topple makes undertaking these symbolic projects less attractive. Taipei 101 will have to serve as symbol enough to demonstrate Taiwan's advanced, and affluent nature.

September 24, 2005

Touristing

This afternoon I did some touristy things here in Taipei. I started off at the National Palace Museum at about noon. To get there from my current lodgings I took the MRT for about twenty minutes, and then switched to a bus for about another ten. It was my first time on a bus here, and I was again impressed with the public transit system here in Taipei. It is cheap, clean, comfortable, and extensive. Nonetheless many locals seem to prefer the freedom offered by their scooters. While riding the bus this morning I saw a not uncommon sight. It was an entire family piled onto one tiny scooter. The father was driving, while his wife clung onto his back. Meanwhile his legs were splayed apart to free up room where his feet would normally go for both of his children to stand at attention. The child in front held onto the middle of the handle bars, while the child behind her held onto her sister’s shoulders. Between the children’s feet was the family dog curled up into an impossibly small space. I guess it makes for a fuel efficient way to transport four people and a dog, and saves on parking charges.


Palace.jpg

The National Palace Museum houses what many consider to be the best collection of Chinese art and artifacts in the world. The KMT brought them from the mainland for ‘safe keeping’ during the withdrawal. Mainlanders gripe about this cultural ‘theft’ but considering the various upheavals the mainland has gone through since ’49 it is probably for the best that these priceless items are safe and sound here in Taipei. The collection is so vast only a fraction can be displayed at any one time. Thus the exhibits are rotated on a fairly regular basis. Today there was a display of Imperial name stamps, jade artifacts, calligraphy, ancient maps of Asia (these were all of European origin), Buddhist and Hindu statuary, and some highlights of the museum’s porcelain, ivory and jade collections. My personal highlight was one of the museum’s most famous pieces. It is a single piece of ivory carved into an incredibly ornate and intricate decorative item. Somehow the artisan managed to carve seventeen concentric spheres from this single piece of ivory. The spheres are held within a framework made of the same piece of ivory which is suspended from chain, yet again carved from the same material.

Beyond the concentric ivory spheres, I found myself gravitating towards items which had more utilitarian backgrounds. I can only stand to look at so many decorative items in one day. However, items that had a purpose when they were made are more evocative to me. I prefer to be fascinated by things which were used by real living breathing people in their day to day lives rather than to be dazzled by some decoration which has spent its entire existence being appreciated only because it is particularly pleasing to the eye and constructed of some valuable substance.

One could spend a lot of time in the museum, as there is a lot to see. However today was Saturday and I found it a bit too crowded to really take my time and enjoy myself. I can’t count the number of times I was looking closely at some object only to be quickly surrounded by a pack of tourists (almost invariably Japanese) and their very loud guide. This particular breed of tourist has no inhibitions about jostling people out of the way to get a better look at whatever it is the guide is describing to them. Eventually I got hungry and left to browse around some other touristy areas, and get some dinner.

September 18, 2005

This is the photo

Memorial.jpg

This is the photo of Chiang Kai-Shek’s memorial hall. It is a popular spot to relax, or participate in outdoor activities. While there are quite a few parks here in Taipei, there isn’t nearly as much open space as I am accustomed to. Virtually no one in the city-proper has space of their own outside of their home. There are no lawns. Large balconies are uncommon. Subsequently when outdoor activities take place, they take place in the public sphere. This gives communities here an interesting dynamic as people interact with one another on the streets.

This Sunday was the mid-Autumn moon festival. The festival involves giving and eating mooncakes, and barbequing with one’s family. I was offered numerous mooncakes in the days leading up to the festival, but due to my dietary restrictions didn’t get a chance to taste them. They are wee compact cakes, similar in shape to an English pork pie, with sweet filling and usually an egg inside. Legend has it that these cakes were utilized during the late days of the Yuan dynasty as a way to communicate messages of dissent, calling for citizens to rise up against their Mongol overlords. Notes were hidden inside of the cakes organizing an anti-Mongol uprising on the day of the full moon, hence the moon festival.

The Barbequing portion of the festival takes place on the sidewalks and streets of the city. Families are everywhere, squatting or sitting on small stools around barbeques eating, talking, and drinking. Everyone shares the public space here. Often families are sitting outside of their shops doing business and celebrating the moon festival simultaneously. In places where there are sidewalks they are smoky and smell of food. In places without sidewalks families are sitting on the streets with cars and mopeds zipping by as they barbeque their meat and fish. At the same time people take advantage of being outdoors with their barbequing implements to burn some ghost money. They have special portable fire-pits just for the purpose. They start a fire and feed it with wad upon wad of ghost money. This pays respect to their ancestors and presumably ensures that they need not go without creature comforts in the afterlife. All of this outdoor activity adds a sense of community to areas of the city, whose North American counterparts are populated with well cocooned individual family units which rarely interact with one another. I enjoy the street culture here. It adds a vitality to Taipei which is lacking in many cities around the world.

September 15, 2005

Hot or Not?

While there are some indicators of beauty which seem to exist as culturally independent truisms, there are others which are specific to certain regions, classes, and cultures. Here in Taiwan fair skin is a highly prized feature sought after by most image conscious women. These women are willing to submit themselves to various inconveniences, and discomforts to either make their skin appear paler, or at least prevent it from becoming darkened. The majority of women here use parasols when walking out of doors. This is an understandable tradition, as it not only keeps one pale but it also helps keep one cool. However I have observed women taking their parasol (which doubles as an umbrella on rainy days) out of their bags, opening it up, and holding it above their heads so that they may cross a three meter long un-shaded space without having the sun’s direct rays fall upon their skin. This strikes me as rather inconvenient and even slightly obsessive. Others wear scarves over their faces and seemingly ridiculously large sun visors atop their heads. Both are again somewhat practical as the scarves help filter out pollution, and the visors do provide some pleasant shade. Still others, while riding on their ubiquitous scooters, wear a jacket backwards to cover their arms, and any chest that may be exposed by a low-rising shirt. This one just strikes me as being an uncomfortable hassle. However, having not ridden on a scooter here, there may be some practical reasoning which escapes me. For those who are not content with their present complexion there are a multitude of creams and other medicinals available to help lighten one’s skin to a more eye-pleasing shade. These are aggressively marketed on television, in the MRT, and on billboards about town.

What I find interesting about this particular aesthetic is what it has to say about Taiwanese culture. The particular traits which we find attractive express certain values held by our culture. In the West, unlike here in Taiwan, being tanned is a highly sought after attribute. People go to great lengths to attain, and subsequently retain, a tanned complexion. Entire industries are predicated upon Western individuals' desire to be tanned. This hasn’t always been the case. In the past the West’s perception of beautiful skin was more similar to that held here in Taiwan: Fairer is better. A fair complexion used to indicate that one had no need to work out of doors. The labouring masses were destined to darken as they worked on fields and farms. Upper-class individuals could afford to avoid the sun and out of doors as much as they pleased. At some point in time in the West this perception changed. I posit that the rise of indoor working environments and sheltered late twentieth-century living gave rise to the attractiveness of the tan. A good tan now subconsciously informs us that an individual has either the time or money necessary to lay about in the sun or in a tanning booth acquiring their attractive complexion. An uneven ‘Farmer’s’ tan is not considered attractive. But a surfer’s consistent complexion tells us that he can afford to spend hours out in the sun with his shirt off enjoying life instead of being locked up in an office trying to pay the bills. The same logic applies to long nails, and bound feet. An individual with long nails obviously doesn’t need to pick cabbage for a living. It is a visual marker of class status. Bound feet are an especially interesting marker, as they essentially cripple a woman so as to indicate the status of her family. This crippling, and to modern eyes unappealing, body modification was highly sought after by contemporary Han Chinese men as an attractive physical attribute.

I reckon the Taiwanese attraction to fair skin stems from the same initial reasoning as the, now outdated, Western attraction to fair skin did. Fair skin used to mean upper class. In the same way that renaissance paintings glorify the beauty of larger pear-shaped women, so do Taiwanese ad campaigns glorify the beauty of pale skinned models. However the renaissance masterpieces were painted during an era of scant resources in Europe. To be large was the exception. Here in Taiwan it is now easy to avoid the sun at almost all times. Most people spend the majority of their day indoors or at least in the shade, which is very cleverly assured via the local sub-tropical architecture. Thus individuals, to be an exceptional beauty, must go to great lengths to become paler than would naturally appear. They avoid all contact with sunlight, they use whitening creams, and generously apply light shades of makeup. The result is an interesting visual spectacle and a cultural marker which can help us appreciate the historical background for our, sometimes seemingly arbitrary, perceptions of beauty.

The Commies are Coming

The other day, as class was about to begin, an air raid siren sounded. Or at least it sounded like an air raid siren. Nothing seemed to happen immediately. I listened for fire engines, or police cars, or other sounds of an emergency response. Nothing came and so I shrugged off the siren sounds as an anomalous foreign noise. Shortly thereafter a small man walked into our classroom, switched off the lights and air conditioning, and walked away without saying a word. I saw him do the same thing in the room across the hall. A girl in the room opposite to us stood up and, with a confused look on her face, turned the lights back on. She was immediately berated by the small man, who returned to turn her lights off and reprimand her insolence.

This piqued my curiosity. Something strange was afoot. When our teacher arrived she placed her fingers over her lips and made a shushing sound. Using a dry-erase marker she wrote ‘Raid Alarm’ on the board. She whispered “no class, twenty minutes, no lights, no air conditioning…Raid Alarm.” Apparently Taiwan holds occasional raid alarms to ensure readiness in case of an attack by the Mainland. During these alarms we turn off the lights and air conditioning and sit quietly in our classrooms. Exactly why we do this I’m not sure. Maybe Taiwan needs all of the available electricity for defense efforts? Perhaps they have some sort of technologically advanced, power thirsty, anti-communist ray gun. As for our need to remain quiet, I suppose it is to inculcate a sense of calmness in the event of attack. If the raid were to ever become reality, having the lay-people trained to sit quietly in darkened rooms would be preferable to having them running about the streets panicking and yelling about the raiding commies.

The occurrence made me giggle. However, it also made me stop and think for a moment. An invasion of Taiwan by Mainland China is, of course, no laughing matter. The People’s Republic takes their perceived territorial integrity and subsequent irredentist claims seriously. The CCP seems resolute about the repatriation of Taiwan. The cross-straits military teeter-totter is increasingly teetering in the favour of the Mainland. One hopes that the growing relations between the two regions help to mitigate the possibility of conflict in the future. The business, familial, and political ties which are being renewed and newly developed between the two regions should be encouraged by both governments involved, and by the international community at large.

One would hope that in the not too distant future it won't be necessary for Taiwan to hold raid alarms. Hopefully Taiwan's current state of international limbo can be sorted out in a way advantageous to all parties involved. In the meantime I guess I have the occasional darkened classroom to look forward to, as a country (for lack of a more appropriate term) prepares itself for the possibility of an invasion or missile attack.

September 9, 2005

Spots

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I pass this poster every day on my way to and from the MRT station. I can’t help but look and wonder. It is affixed to the front of a National Health Services office. They must do something to your spots inside. Exactly what they do will remain a mystery until I learn enough to read the poster. But whatever they’re doing in there is being effectively advertised. They get my attention every day. The photos of spotty body parts, while semi-repulsive, is somehow fascinating. The fact that, if you look close enough, you can see that man’s left nut between his spotty ass cheeks makes me smile. I wonder how he feels having his ass emblazoned on National Health Services posters? Furthermore I wonder if he even knows that his ass has been so utilized? He may go in one day for a regular check up and recognize his ass staring him back in the face as he walks through the door. How surprising would that be?

Nurse: “What is your appointment for, sir?”
Man: “Well, I have a check up. I had some spots on my ass, but the doctor did something to them”
Nurse: (pointing) “Were they spots like these?”
Man: “Well…they were THOSE spots.”
Nurse: “Excuse me?”
Man: “Those spots…they’re my spots. That’s MY ass.” (raising eyebrows seductively) “And THAT’S my left nut.”
Queue electric guitar with wah-wah pedal…

September 7, 2005

This is a photo of

This is a photo of the street I'm currently living on: Xin Yi Lu.

Xinyi.jpg

Judging from my preliminary observations, it is a fairly typical Taipei thoroughfare. The ground floor is lined with shops while the upper three to five floors are residential apartments. The shops are often segmented into types. For instance a certain area of town will have a very high concentration of electronic goods shops, while another may have a higher concentration of painting supply shops. The convenience stores and family run restaurants however, are ubiquitous.

September 2, 2005

Finally

I finally got this puppy online and did some updating. Below is a photo of the entrance to the apartment I'm currently staying at. It isn't much of a photo, but it is the only one I currently have sized to the right dimensions to post here.

hostel.jpg

I'm off to my first class right now. I just had a nice lunch with a fellow named John. He just finished his Poli-Sci Master's somewhere in Wisconsin and is trying to learn Chinese so as to improve his chances at getting a sweet spot in a nice school to do his PhD. It was nice to have a cogent conversation about things political. I find my brain is slightly atrophying as I spend too much time writing characters, and not enough time analyzing or constructing arguments.

I'm off to class.

August 29, 2005

Registration

Today was late registration day at school. I arrived at office 612 at about 9:30, and was told as I am a scholarship student I’d have to go to office 607 to fill in some forms. Being the obedient type I scampered off to Miss Cheng’s desk where she informed me of the various things I’d need to do to receive my scholarship, and handed me a stack of forms to fill out. Miss Cheng sent me with some of the forms back to desk 2 at office 612 where I received a few more forms to fill out. After filling out these forms I went to desk 4 in office 612. Here they registered me for classes, and gave me my student ID. I was then directed towards desk 6 where payment of tuition is to be made. I paid in full for my first three months of study, and was then redirected to office 601 to speak with a teacher. After waiting for a few minutes in 601 I spoke briefly with a teacher who redirected me to room 501. Here I was sent to desk 12-C where I sat for a half an hour and wrote a proficiency test. I found the test rather difficult especially as I’ve only studied Simplified Chinese Characters prior to this and Taiwan still uses Traditional Chinese Characters. After finishing up my test I had to head to the Taipei Police Foreign Services office to get my I.D. number and Alien Resident Certificate (ARC). Once there I grabbed my forms, and went to Desk 11. Ms. Wang at desk 11 sent me to desk 2 to see if I indeed needed an ARC. I was informed that I do indeed need an ARC, but will not be able to get one until I get some more forms from my school. Instead I was sent back to desk 11 where I filled out a form to get my ID number. This number will allow me to open a bank account into which my scholarship funds will be deposited monthly. After finishing up at the police station I headed home for some well deserved, air-conditioned rest.

August 27, 2005

First Impressions

I arrived late last night. Entering the country was no problem whatsoever. The queue at immigration for foreigners was surprisingly short. I caught a bus from the airport to downtown Taipei where I was met by Murray who runs the Mandarin hostel. He put me in a cab and sent the cabby on his way with directions. The drive was longer than expected. We drove by the Chiang Kai-Shek memorial Hall, and Taipei 101. Upon arrival at the hostel I was shown my room. It is nice enough, if rather warm. I was offered last night’s accommodation for free as the air conditioning will not be installed until this afternoon.

It is about 32 degrees, and very humid here. I just had a bit of a walk around, poking my head into a few shops, and wandering around a marketplace. It all seems rather hectic and rushed. People are weaving around crowded streets on mopeds. Caged chickens are clucking. Various cuts of meat hang at shop stalls. I had trouble identifying anything that was on display at the market apart from the most basic produce such as bananas. Shopping will be an adventure and, I’m assuming, with my particular dietary restrictions (celiac’s gluten free diet) occasionally frustrating.

This afternoon I’ll hop on the MRT and have a bit of a wander around town. I’d like to poke around the city centre, and maybe have a look at the Shi Da campus.

August 25, 2005

In transit.

I left my parents’ home at 5:00 this morning. My flight wasn’t scheduled to depart Toronto until 10:00, but they live two hours from Pearson airport. The threat of thick traffic or car malfunctions compels me to leave very early for international flights. In addition, one has to pre-clear U.S. customs and immigration in Toronto. The U.S. border guards sometimes frown on young males with a road-case full of juggling equipment, so I thought it best to budget for delays.

It is 12:42 Eastern time now. I am sitting in Chicago O’Hare waiting for my connection to Tokyo. I have a 3 hour layover here. Although seeing as CNN just informed me of a typhoon headed directly for Tokyo and scheduled to hit land this evening, I may end up with more waiting than I had anticipated. They are forecasting up to 14 inches of rain. While some of those inches may be Cable News Network fear-mongering, I’m sure even a few inches of rain combined with strong winds could be enough to delay my arrival.

My official itinerary puts me at Chiang Kai Shek airport at 21:00 local time Friday evening. I’ve reserved a room at some sort of transitional accommodation housing for cheap expats. I am to phone them upon arrival. They have promised to escort me to my room where I will hopefully be able to blissfully sleep away the worst of my jetlag.

I will live here for a few weeks while I find a more permanent residence. I am looking for a homestay with a Chinese family as it will help with my language learning. My goal is to eschew the expat community as much as possible. I realize that staying in expat accommodation upon arrival isn’t a good way to realize my goal, but as I said: it is “transitional.”

On Monday I head to NTNU to register for my classes, and pay my tuition. I’ll try to snap a few photos and get them up here.

August 19, 2005

New Journal

I'm sitting in my apartment in Halifax, ostensibly preparing myself for my trip to Taiwan, but actually watching the Simpsons: 'Comfort TV' as one of my roommates puts it. I have one gig left before I drive to Toronto on Monday to catch my flight on Thursday. I've yet to find a place to live in Taipei. I also have yet to figure out how to say "I need a place to live" in Chinese. Nonetheless I'm sure everything will work out for the best. I've been on a winning streak for a while.

The chance to go and study in Taipei on the government's dime is but one of many strokes of good luck I've been recently blessed with. Interested parties can check out the backstory here: SMU news release. I didn't say ALL of those cheesy quotes. The PR man put some words into my mouth so as to make the story more appealing. I eschew 'juggling' puns, and have no idea what a "fire ring" is...